Closing date for April issue -> February 17
A lathe, so…
Buying a metal lathe is a damn handy idea. And using it as a hobby? It's not rocket science. Anyone looking to buy a lathe and want to know what to look for can find countless videos on YouTube about how to use one. Such a machine usually consists of the same main components: a cast iron base, an electric motor, and a chuck. The chuck is driven by the electric motor via a V-belt.
These days, you can buy many new, hobby-oriented lathes/benches. Where do they come from? How about China? A lot of good, or good enough, equipment comes from China too. But with this kind of equipment, the saying "cheap is expensive" is very true.
Another option is to buy a used one from a well-known brand. What should you look out for?
First of all, of course, whether the machine runs on regular mains voltage or three-phase current. Converting it to 380 volts can be quite expensive, and the question is whether you really need three-phase current for "our" work.
What to look for when viewing a used lathe:
Bed wear: Check the bed slides for excessive wear, dents, or deep scratches. Uneven wear can affect the accuracy of your turning. Manually move the slide along its entire length to feel if it suddenly becomes stiff at any point, which often indicates heavy use in that specific area.
Play: Check all moving parts, such as the spindles and handwheels, for minimal play. Some play is normal, but play can indicate worn components.
Lubrication and maintenance: Ask for the maintenance history and have the seller show you the oil levels and lubrication points. If the seller can't provide this information, the machine probably hasn't been properly maintained. Look for rusty water or coolant in the gearboxes instead of oil.
Power Operation: Always ask to see the machine running. Test all speeds and power supplies to ensure the transmissions operate smoothly and without any unusual noises. Also check the emergency stop devices.
Accuracy: Although absolute precision cannot be expected from a used machine, the main and counter centers should be properly aligned.
Safety: Check that the machine is equipped with essential safety features, such as a protective cover over the rotating part with a safety switch, and an emergency stop button.
Accessories: Check which chucks, tool holders, and other accessories are included. Having the right extras can save you significant time and money.
Parts: Inquire about the availability of spare parts for your specific make and model. This can be challenging for rare or imported machines.
Also consider the size and weight of your potential purchase. A serious, retired professional lathe can weigh several hundred kilos. And a machine that's truly in the way will be more of a nuisance than a pleasure.
Once the business is set up and you've worked your way up to being an almost experienced turner thanks to the internet, the rest of your life will consist of turning filler rings, spacers, swingarms and anything else you (and your acquaintances) can think of.
What does that cost?
New, from a reputable company like HBM, starting at around €500. This metal lathe is a compact machine for turning small workpieces up to 125 mm long and 100 mm in diameter. Thanks to the infinitely variable speeds from 100 to 3800 rpm, you can work exactly as you wish. With features like a cross slide and a sliding spindle, the machine is a pleasantly complete package. It also boasts a stable frame, quiet operation, and easy operation.
You've probably already seen on YouTube that a lathe comes with chisels and other handy tools. We recommend—without obligation, of course—chisels with carbide bits. The right chisel (bit) and the final result depend heavily on the chisel. We recommend asking questions and purchasing from a real, physical store.
Also on the shopping list: tools, indexable inserts, and quick-change chucks, as well as chucks, reamers, and collet sets. Perform precise parting and turning operations with HSS or HM tools, use live centers, adapters, and reducing sleeves for perfect alignment, and hold your workpiece securely with high-quality 3- and 4-jaw chucks.
Starting at around €500. In all likelihood, such a machine comes straight from China, but you'll have a genuine Dutch company to talk to if anything arises or you have questions. And that's not the case with Ali or Temu.
Before purchasing the HBM-like machines, here is a practical tip:
By working effectively on these lathes, you'll gain increasing turning experience, meaning you'll want to do more and more things on the machine, but its technical limitations prevent you from doing so. So, think carefully about what you'd like to do now and later (with more experience). Also, keep in mind that tools like inserts, live centers, internal turning tools, 4-jaw chucks, steady rests, etc., can easily cost many times more than the purchase price of a lathe.
I would say try a good second hand one, there are usually a fortune's worth of free stuff in there.
And yes, I've had a lathe with cross and longitudinal feeds and variable speed control for 25 years. What an (un)affordable luxury and pleasure!👍
Totally agree.
And don't forget the clock micrometers (analog or digital).
Because measuring = knowing.
And know what you measure.
By the way, that lathe from HBM that Dolf was talking about is an excellent thing for small jobs.
Indeed, not even 500 euros.
22kg.
Why not outsource that work?
You'll be shocked at the price.
So much for the return.
I have had a Myford Super7 since 1997.
Separate gears for thread cutting.
They are also available with a 2-lever gearbox.
Parts?
No problem.
A very good MF specialist is located in Vlaardingen.
An MF is made in Birmingham.
Formerly unaffordable.
Now decent prices but still a lot more expensive than the HBM.
50cm TDC.
220-240 Volt.
Mine is NEVER going away.
You do SO MUCH with it.
Lubricate well with special oils.
So also use a drip tray.
Length of the machine is approx. 120 cm.
If you go for an MF, choose a complete one with booklets from someone who is quitting.
@Rolf, I bet you also mean that you know good YouTube editors? ;)
I've had a lathe for about 25 years. It has a 250mm TDC and a maximum machinable diameter of 120mm. It's driven by a V-belt and threads can be cut using a pitch adjustment with change gears. Automatic feed only in the longitudinal direction. The spindle bore is 15mm.
I've done almost impossible things with that thing. It's already recouped its cost many times over. It's a Chinese "pirated copy" of a Dutch Hobbymat. First, it needed some TLC before it could be put to use. After that, it's just been a joy to use. It's used weekly. A few years ago, it was even daily. Without that thing in the garage, I'd be seriously out of my mind. It didn't come with a drill bit with a Morse taper to fit the spindle. I had to buy one separately through another source. I've done so much with it that I've already had to buy a new drill bit 😂. If that whole thing ever meets the Holy Ghost, I'll consult the well-known HBM for something the same size or just a tad bigger. For now, I'm happy with it. Without a lathe? Please don't!!
I've sworn by my Hembrug AI for years. Secondhand from the Thomassen and Drijver school!
A lathe
Definitely a great asset, and you can do amazing things with it (with a bit of practice). It works much better than messing with a bastard file on a piece of iron in the drill.
For decades I have had a perfect Dutch bench from the then well-known Artillery establishments, then very well known as the AI bench.
Works great once you figure out how to remove the slack. It's not difficult, though.
All those protective equipment you mention, Paul, didn't exist back then.
A guard on the cutting board? Never heard of it, put on safety glasses and you're safe. Shield the V-belt pulleys for the main spindle drive? You can watch out for yourself, right?
Low-voltage protection? You just have to remember to turn off the switch.
Easy to move? Yes, it weighs only 1600 kg, and even a little vibration won't make it move.
We used to have lessons on this machine at technical school. I'm still alive, and it shows that with proper attention, you can do without safety features.
For anyone considering buying a lathe, go for it. You'll get a lot of enjoyment out of it.
The AI was an excellent choice; I considered it myself but ultimately went for the Schaublin 102-VM.
This is especially true for the distribution on the loose head.
The whole family asked 'what do you need a lathe for?' They all went with 'can you just...'.
I'm missing some of the well-intentioned warnings: don't leave the wrench in the chuck, don't wear baggy sleeves, etc., because a plastic chip cover won't help at all.
I also had the AI variable-speed bench drill, which I recently sold, and I suspect Huub van Doorne had one in his workshop and that's how he came up with the idea to "invent" the transmission for the Daffodil.
As mentioned, a lathe (or small lathe) is a vital tool for motorcyclists, and basic skills can be easily learned. And you can certainly consider a "Chinese" lathe. There are good experiences with lathes from HBM or similar suppliers. N/M, it's best to skip the very smallest ones: a small center height is quite nice. I wouldn't go below 250mm. The center height is usually already listed in the model designation. A lathe with experience is also fine, of course. Just be sure to pay attention to the points Dolf mentioned, although you shouldn't be afraid of a lathe with a three-phase motor. You don't need a three-phase current.
With an inverter for just over €100, you can run a nice AI or similar device with a three-phase motor from 1.5 to 2.2 hp on a standard 16A outlet. I've had good experiences with it for years. The same goes for a heavy-duty drill press, for example. It's also nice to have...
By the way, that lathe from HBM that Dolf was talking about is an excellent thing for small jobs.
Indeed, not even 500 euros.
22kg.
Why not outsource that work?
You'll be shocked at the price.
So much for the return.