Additives. Castor oil and super juice

Auto Motor Klassiek » Articles » Additives. Castor oil and super juice
Purchasing classics there

Motorcycling is very hot right now. Reading in the shade is better… It is very important to us to pamper our motorcycles. But of course we also sometimes dream of miracle cures with which we can just bypass a block revision. Or prevent. Then we come upon the shadowy path of the vials, cans and vials of miracle cures. We speak from experience and from what we found in the archives.

You come a long way with it

For example, we once drove a dead tired CB 750 F that in the end only ran on additives. And do you know what happened? The camshaft broke… But that was entirely my own fault.


Experts agree that subsequent additions to engine oil have little added value when an engine block is simply in good condition. They assume that there is little to improve on the oil as offered by the reputable manufacturers. The 'ex works' additions are tailored to use in the power source of the classic. The excellent range of additives that the factory mixed with the oil provides properties per additive or a synergy of properties that reinforce each other's effect. Disrupting the balance between those agents can reduce the properties of the oil. Think basic: a little salt makes the fries tastier. A pound of salt doesn't make them all that much tastier.

The choice is huge!

The approach to load all providers of 'oil improvers' into a shopping cart went wrong. There are too many providers for our budget. There are even different brands that come from the same manufacturer.

That's why we started grouping the case. We looked at oil additives that fell into the same group, had the same basic ingredients and made the same promises.

We came to the following distinction in types:

  1. Liquids based on mineral oils (with the associated standard additives plus PTFE). And PTFE is the generic name of the products for which DuPont has registered the brand name 'Teflon'. And PTFE means: polytetrafluoroethylene, PTFE is a 'plastic' with an extremely low coefficient of friction. A solid.
  2. Products consisting of the above normal mineral oil with the standard additives plus zinc diakyl dithiophosphate (or zinc diaryl dithiophosphate), known as 'zinc' as an extra additive.
  3. Products that – as far as we could determine – have the same additives as standard motor oils. But in different proportions and combinations.
  4. Products that mainly consist of solvents and cleaning agents.

PTFE, or if it comes from DuPont 'Teflon'

The most sold oil additives at the moment are those in which PTFE powder is mixed with ordinary, say high-quality, mineral or synthetic motor oil. In this segment, Slick 50 is said to be the largest player. Some of the names we found were: Slick 50, QMI, Lubrilon, Microlon, Petrolon, Matrix (from the same company that also makes Slick 50). A search on the Internet yielded a much larger number of providers. And usually they also want to deliver in the Netherlands. Just by mail.

The PTFE is indicated by these suppliers as the only additional active ingredient.

This range of products has built up a serious reputation within automotive and motorcycling circles. But there have also been people with a more critical stance. For example, the inventor of the product, the American chemical giant DuPont, once emphatically stated that: “Teflon is not a sensible oil additive or lubricant for combustion engines”. The company therefore refused to resell Teflon.

When DuPont stopped supplying PTFE powder to the additive makers, some companies looked elsewhere. They bought their PTFE powder in other countries and disguised that approach by listing the addition under fantasy names on the label. But it was just PTFE. The stories about the larger 'flake size' of non-DuPont PTFE powders also stem from that time. Those larger particles would more easily 'settle' and cause blockages in filters and channels.
After several lawsuits, DuPont had to admit that PTFE also had no apparent disadvantages when used in combustion engines. As a result, the company had to resume supplying PTFE powders to these additional lubricant manufacturers. The makers of the lubricant additives immediately claimed that the judges had proven their approach worked. While the statement was actually only that the harmfulness of PTFE as an additive had not been proven.

When purchasing a PTFE-bearing additive, there is a very easy guideline in that case: if the packaging states that the product must first be shaken, the added PTFE particles apparently tend to sink to the bottom. And if they do that in the bottle, then they will probably do the same in a usually little used classic.

Because PTFE is a solid. The additive makers claim that it is precisely those solid particles that leave the protective layer on the metal treads. A conclusive scientific proof has not yet been given for this. But it seems instinctively that the PTFE that has to be deposited precisely at the places that are the most heavily loaded in the engine, must still easily settle at the quieter places in the block. Like in the oil canals. Even NASA tests pointed in that direction.

That is the claim of some manufacturers. They say that their PTFE is ground so fine that it stays in solution and goes through all oil channels and filters. That sounds good and may be true. But then we have to hope that those manufacturers have taken into account that PTFE expands a lot when heated. Laboratory tests in America have proven that at some suppliers the growth of the PTFE particles is in practice so great that the particles at operating temperature of the engine apparently partially remained in the filters. Only QMI informs that the PTFE particles in their product are so small that they remain in circulation until they settle at their workplace. QMI also had more clearly verifiable references about the use and results of their product.

The newest panacea: zinc

In recent years, there has been a product that aims to rival PTFE: zinc. Well, actually 'zinc dialkyldithiophosphate' or 'zinc diaryldithiophosphate'. The representatives of this trend claim far better results than colleagues from the PTFE corner can deliver. They actually do the opposite.

Zinc has been a component of common motor oils for years. A percentage of 0,1 is customary for standard oils. With oil for higher taxes, this can be as much as 0,2 volume percent. At first, those percentages were higher. But after there were claims of defective catalytic converters, the oil manufacturers lowered the values. But luckily we drive classic.

Organic zinc compounds are used because they provide better protection against wear under high pressure. Think of engines that run very high speeds and turbochargers. That zinc only does its protective work when metallic contact occurs in the engine block. And that should never happen under normal circumstances. But when someone likes to regularly run their tachometer needle in the red area, that's where the zinc can come to the rescue.

Means that are 'zinc-containing' are easy to recognize. There is a warning sticker on it because, for example, the "zinc dialkyldithiophosphate" and "zinc diaryldithiophosphate" can cause eye damage. Always wear safety goggles and gloves when handling liquids that may be harmful to health in any way. Also ensure good ventilation.

Solvents and cleaning agents

We often find these agents in the older generations of oil additives. Block pollution was much more common then. They are usually based on cleaning agents and solvents that remove sludge ('mayonnaise'), varnish and carbon deposits from the block. They actually do the opposite of what the 'new' agents such as PTFE and zinc do. They don't leave a nice layer, they just remove dirt. The famous Wynn's Friction Proofing, for example, consists of 83% kerosene. And kerosene is very close to petroleum in terms of family ties. Other brands consist partly of naphthalene, xylene, acetone or isopropanol. These are aggressive substances with a danger of eye contact and inhalation.

However, if the dosage is too large, they not only remove the dirt, but also the lubricating oil layer. But used on cars from the fifties and sixties, they can be useful as a one-off 'clean up'. On more recent engines, their operation is too gross and potentially ruinous.

A cautious conclusion

The engines of our classics are at least 25 years young. In the meantime, lubrication systems including filtering, materials and tolerances have been improved to such an extent that the comparison between an Opel Rekord 1900 cc pushrod block and a three-cylinder 1000 cc turbo of 220 hp simply cannot be made. But perhaps that is precisely the reason that there are a good number of classic drivers who swear by these types of products from their own experience. And why not? AMK has another addition in mind. A product of which the makers proudly claim that it is based solely on mineral oil and which we were made aware of by a satisfied user. We come back with a story about – among other things – TSL. Initially, we have already seen that it contains a fairly high zinc percentage. And then there was Xado, who came from former Ukrainian army labs. That remedy really promises miracles. But we never got an answer to our letter to them…

Known for the television spots ...

Engine manufacturer Briggs & Stratton unknowingly supplied some of those demo engines from the TV commercials some time ago. Those commercials with an American accent are so often FANTASTIC! and INCREDIBLE!!!! was called. It made them curious and did the same experiment under laboratory conditions. It turned out that the engine treated with the product 'X' did indeed run for a long time without oil. Just like the engine that also ran dry without a miracle cure ever added. Subsequent measurements indicated that both engines had suffered considerably from the experiment.


REGISTER FOR FREE AND WE'LL SEND YOU OUR NEWSLETTER EVERY DAY WITH THE LATEST STORIES ABOUT CLASSIC CARS AND MOTORCYCLES

Select other newsletters if necessary

We won't send you spam! Read our privacy policy for more information.

If you like the article, please share it...

17 comments

  1. We used to say to ticking valves: just put a can of “W*nns for valve set” in it.
    Although, a little 2 stroke oil with the lean petrol doesn't seem to be bad for an engine.

  2. With my old Ford Scorpio 2.9 I drove 6 years with one oil filling, but I did replace the oil filter neatly and the amount of oil involved was neatly topped up.
    Oil consumption was low and remained low. The engine ran like heaven and continued to run like heaven.
    The Valvoline 10-W40 continued to do its job nicely. Because of a maddening tap, those oil-thickening miracle cures were initially added, but that only made matters worse. The 10-W40 was thinner but eliminated the pat!
    My 'Bavarian Boxer' Blauwtje has been running on oil from Lidl for years. Guess what….? He's doing really great with that. The difference with other oil? It's not even half the price. The standards on the packaging are the same as for other oils.
    Unfortunately, all too often I have come to know commercially oriented claims as esoterics.
    Where clearly better lubrication results were achieved, that is with the gear oils from LE.
    (Lubricating Engineers) Blood red oils SAE80 and SAE90 ('Duolec 1607' and 'Duolec 1605') with quite a few 'tackers' in it to make it stick to the surface. Both Blauwtje and the R1150 have changed gears much more smoothly and the final transmissions also run a lot better. It really isn't esoteric there. It is industrial stuff that is unfortunately not seen on the consumer market.

  3. PFAS, PTFE, PFOA poison the whole world, think of the Western Scheldt / Antwerp with 3M and the island of Dordrecht with DuPont. Take your responsibility and don't use the mess, if you don't do it for yourself, at least for posterity.
    But I like to read CarMotor klassiek.

  4. “We once drove a dead tired Alfasud which in the end only ran on additives. And do you know what happened? The camshaft broke… But that was entirely my own fault.

    What was it? A Honda or a Alfa?

  5. Dolf TOP article, wow I spoiled my wonderfully beautiful URAL with such precious “miracle cures” and truly the psychological effect was priceless!

  6. Also used here, had no negative experience with it. Most striking I found with a Panda 1000S that I once bought new and where I added slick30.000 somewhere at 50km or so, that the engine noise became a lot less.
    The “tests” with these kinds of additions did indeed hang in a certain advertising light, unscientific and interspersed with slogans. Kind of like Telsell.

  7. I still remember the movie with 'King-Customer' a consumer program on TV, an old Benz 300D with/and without Slick50 treatment. Oil was drained on both and you guessed it, the slick50 got the furthest. Wim Borsboom's conclusion was that it had to be good stuff and weeks later it was sold out. I'm crazy used it too, oil change with half a liter less. Oil, let it come to temperature, with Slick50 engine running, shaken well, top up and then drive 65 km…

  8. I recommended it Citroen CX instruction booklet never added anything to the engine oil. Neither did the previous owner. I've had my CX diesel for 10 years now. Mr Skeans has
    bought it new in Amsterdam and shipped immediately via California to BC.
    What we did and still do is change oil every 6 months, 20-50 and a new one
    filter . Knock on wood, but nothing has ever broken motor in the last 41 years.
    The instruction booklet (in Dutch) is clear. I hope I don't get punished tomorrow with
    a resounding blow that ruins everything in one go, oh well, sometimes shit happens.

    My neighbor's new Hyundai Tucson, with a GDI engine, MUST put all sorts of junk in the oil and gas to keep it a bit whole. This is described in the Owners Manual. Also, this thing needs a PCV valve after 22000 km. The valve was $90.00 Labor was $500.00 plus tax, ouch.
    Good article Dolf, thanks.

  9. Adding a small amount of Zinc or ZDDP to 20W50 classic oil does not seem wrong to me, especially if you know that since 2011, the zinc content (also in classic oil) had to be greatly reduced by law.
    As for Teflon or PTFE, opinions are always very divided here.
    I use this addition every 3 oil changes, with my current car I have driven 510.000 km without overhaul, the current oil consumption is 0,75 liters per 10.000 km.
    If PTFE really was a bad product, this engine would have let me know long ago.
    I also have sufficient experience with what modern synthetic or semi-synthetic oils can do to classics (before 1985), after a few years these engines become quite incontinent due to the dissolved gaskets.

Give a reaction

The email address will not be published. Required fields are marked with *

Maximum file size of upload: 8 MB. You can upload: afbeelding. Links to YouTube, Facebook, Twitter and other services inserted in the comment text will be automatically embedded. Drop files here