The Ural needs fresh wiring. That is something with a meter or two of wire, four ANP plugs, an hour of work and a cigar. My back thinks differently now. So it would be easiest to remove the box and put the hybrid (it contains a 750 cc KMZ/Dnepr side valve block) and the thing on the bridge. But my back doesn't think it's a good plan to disassemble the third wheel either. And on the bridge is the Chang….
So I'll wait with the Ural until the gnomes or an acquaintance do the wiring for me. And I'll just continue with the Chang. A good idem must be made of two cardan bells – among other things. I usually don't fix anything on my Russians, Ukrainians and my Chinese. Replacement is easier and cheaper. And all parts between 1950 and 1990 fit together. This does not apply to parts of parts, by the way. The Ukrainian Dnepr solutions are often just a bit more thoughtful. For example, the gearbox from the MT 9 series has a semi-automatic clutch and a Dnepr block has sliding instead of roller bearings with the associated serious oil pump. The Urals have fine splines on the input side of the gimbal. Those of the Dneprs have coarse teeth. The limited metal quality means that the thin splines often lose the battle against the maximum 36 brute peekaas.
And in fact a Ural rocker arm front fork is a geometric mistake.
Ural brakes have a reputation for never working properly. But hey: braking is for cowards. Dneprs often have a handy handbrake. But there's some weird stuff in that Chang. Here and there the Chinese have tinkered with the dimensions. The wrenching is now necessary because the cardan mounting piece on the rear fork has bolts with a slightly different HoH in height. Dismantling is quick. But for reassembly, two rows of loose needles have to be 'taped in'. And then you just see that on a Sunday my tube with mounting grease is missing. And instinctively it even seems a bit too rough for an old Eastern Bloc to stick the needles in place with ceramic grease.
So on Tuesday I went to Silfhout auto parts in Spankeren to bother Mo again with another minimal order. Fortunately, he keeps smiling.
Fortunately, the seal in the donor cardan was still ZGAN.
Just like the lid gasket. When the bearing needles are glued in, a lot of shim work could still be done to get the contact between the bevel gear and the large gear ring optimal. At least, that's by the book. In practice there is often so much height in the gears that the adjustment is simply done by feel. If the spindle rotates smoothly by hand, then it is good.
But we are not there yet
Tuesday so first to Mo. To score a tube of mounting grease. Plus some AMP plugs with Ø 5 holes to neatly tie the strings to the voltage regulator and the dynamo. And wait and see how my back is by then.
A well-known motorcycle journalist once stated:
“Inventiveness is the result of constant massage of intelligence through lack of money.” It may be clear that the Ural or a Chang do need a good development of inventiveness. A hobby is often much more than buying bite-sized things to drive around with. Motorcycling 'inclusive' is not only an outlet for me, in which inventiveness and tinkering are also integral parts of the total pleasure. The fact that some people do not choose to do so is certainly respectable. Everyone has their own interpretation of a hobby.
If your size suits you, then it's good. If you despair too!
Dear Dolf, may I again point out my advice regarding wiring harnesses for Classics and Oldtimers, the colors will not match, but there is nothing better than to use Japanese wiring harnesses (see reliabilitty index top 100) from scrap cars, and don't forget take the sockets with you!
Have 2015 my Porsche 2 ltr. 911 T from 1968 (restored with pieces of Japanese wiring harness) sold to a Frenchman in the Netherlands, who recently emailed me “I've been all over Europe and never hit a wrong blow”! (Note that I also replaced everything from BOSCH, except the starter motor!)
Thank you for your advice – for the Chang followed. For the 6V Dnepr, the brilliant Ukrainians had a scheme that I understood myself and could imitate autonomously. 1 cord for the ignition. 1 cord for the lighting. 1 wire for the brake lights.
I understand Dolph. With a lot of tinkering, thinking and trying to keep something special running again.
And then after tinkering with a good glass of whiskey and a fine cigar! And I especially like the last 2 things! Wonderful story Dolph. Keep it up.
As long as there are cigars and whiskey I will continue! And old stuff is just the stuff that deeply endears me
Western European product? Then I choose Japanese (Yamaha or Honda). A BMW can't match that. My Yamaha FJR 1300 is qualitatively much better than any BMW. Tinkering with old engines is wonderful. History must be preserved!
The FJR 1300 is in the top two of the best motorcycles ever. I get that. But I just find old stuff more fun, more understandable and key (or let it be more maintenance-friendly) than modern stuff. And if I hear that an MT10 at 40D needs a valve check that you have to tap a mille for? Then I'll buy something old again
Man, what are you doing with that junk? Buy a decent Western European product.
I'd just be careful with that Russian vehicle. You're going to get shot off that thing. Thinking an invasion has begun.
You say that, but at the time of MH17 I had a faded blue KMZ pee-valve that once had a hammer and sickle painted on the nose. It was faded to be historical. But a blond, approximately 40-year-old curly-haired ball in a flowery dress came out of the Appie who completely freaked out and almost flew at me. The current KMZ/IMZ hybrid also had that pre-soviet symbol on the nose. For the record I just put blue / yellow over it