Until the end of the last century, a car or motorcycle had to be 'run in'. That meant that the owner of the new vehicle had to handle it with care. No top performance of the machine, no high speeds, but most of all not too low. The mechanical parts had to run into each other. Another word for "wear out."
That careful 'running in' of a just overhauled engine, especially if it concerns a classic, is still necessary. Because otherwise you become the oil company's friend. Over time, the engine will consume excessive (much) oil, rattle (also due to low oil pressure), deliver less in performance and will give the pipe to Maarten faster than expected. The right oil is also of great importance. You do not spoil (...) the machine with cheap oil from a hardware store, Halfords or any other supplier of so-called recycled oil, which is cleaned and then provided with 'fresheners'. Not going to work. With oil for classic engines you must ensure that there is sufficient 'zinc' in the oil. That 'zinc' has now been removed because it kills catalysts ... The so-called 'braking' of the brakes is not recommended in any instruction booklet. But that must happen. You have probably noticed that after mounting new brake discs (of course with new brake pads!) Or brake drums (with of course new lining) it seems after a while that the discs are bent, the drums are oval. With your foot lightly on the brake pedal, your classic comes to a shock. If you need strong braking, you will notice that everything starts to flake. Checking the disc then learns that it is not bent at all, the drum is not oval. Disc and brake pad, just like drum and lining, must be braked to each other. Disc or drum become hot and the friction material sticks to the disc or drum as it were. Proper braking means that an even, very thin layer of friction material deposits on disc or drum and the vehicle brakes without vibration. An additional advantage of this is that the disc or drum barely wears. How are you going to do that braking? Immediately after assembly you look for a quiet road and you brake ten times with very little pressure on the pedal from approximately 70 kilometers per hour to approximately 20 kilometers per hour; then about ten times more powerful and finally you repeat the latter at a speed of 120 to around 20 kilometers per hour. The wheels must be blocked! In both cases you of course have to take into account the following traffic ... It is also wise to replace the brake fluid beforehand, because everything will get hot, very hot. Afterwards you can continue to cool down and let the brakes cool down. Do not stand still immediately, because then the friction material will melt with a brake disc or drum. After a while, brine, rust or standing still for a long time with the foot on the brake pedal, the problem (...) can occur again. This is visible on a 'print' of a brake pad or lining on the disc. drum. There the material has become 'thicker' and you come to a shock again. So it's time to repeat the braking procedure ... Turning it off or off also helps, of course, but even then you'll have to brake it in again ...