In the past, at Manten marina in Loosdrecht, Owatrol was just a professional item to protect white wood. It crawled bravely in the wood on the inside of our sailboat. It was actually a kind of impregnating 1.0 what you did with it. Owatrol was also used as practical protection against rust in inland shipping and steel yachts.
Owatrol is professional stuff
Today Owatrol is best known in the painting industry and industry. In the first place, it is good to use as a paint thinner as an alternative to turpentine. It can therefore only be used in turpentine-based paint. It does not matter what kind of paint it goes.
A solid layer thickness
Because the content of the solids in Owatrol is very high, its use ensures a higher layer thickness after drying. So it protects better. It also ensures better adhesion, because the paint 'eats' into the substrate more easily. It also slows the drying slightly, so that the paint has a longer 'open time' and will flow better. The use of Owatrol means that you will experience much less problems with stripes or an orange effect when rolling. The flow is much better. Gloss and color are not affected by the use.
Owatrol as a rust converter
It also has a function as a rust converter. Because it penetrates deep into rust and becomes rock hard during drying, the product fixes rust completely. You can achieve this by brushing the oil directly and undiluted onto the rust. The oil then penetrates deep into the rust and converts it into a hard solid layer. After this you can just grounds and repaint it. If you dilute the primer with 10% with this oil, you immediately turn it into a metal primer. The primer will eat better in the metal, which promotes adhesion. The primer is also rust-resistant.
So there are several reasons for using Owatrol as a diluent
Owatrol and classics
With us in the classic world, the stuff has of course not just lost its anti-rust effect.
To protect against rust with Owatrol, we have to keep an eye on a few things. Owatrol or RLS (Owatrol + menie) cannot adhere to closed surfaces, such as new steel or galvanized steel, but penetrate the surface damage caused by corrosion and evaporate again after a while out of those "rust spots, so that only Owatrol application is only a temporary solution.
After Owatrol has dried out, it needs to. airtightly sealed with a layer of lead menie (= porous, so permeable to air), then iron noodle (= also porous) and then a layer of non-porous paint, two component varnish, enamel, must be applied over it. Owatrol is a product made for use in combination with turpentine and linseed oil based products. Linseed oil products can be diluted with white spirit and this is also possible. However, benzene is not a good thinner, but degreaser that does destroy the structure of linseed oil. This should never be used as a thinner.
Owatrol as a make-up
Because 'patina' is the magic word these days, Owatrol has now received a new generation of followers. The authentic look of classics with weathered paint, surface rust scratches and such inconvenience can be preserved with it. In the context of maintenance, it is advisable to keep your property lightly every few years.
could read language errors have not been noticed and yet no errors were made in use, so what does it matter
Had a set of weathered aluminum wheels, treated them with owatrol, did not let them dry and an hour later sprayed with a cellulose lacquer. Fine. Has been on it for 12 years. When the owatrol is completely dried, it dissolves with the cellulose lacquer.
Nice and useful article, thanks and my compliments. By the way, as far as language errors are concerned, it is not about the word patina, but about “diluted” instead of diluted (does the memory of language lessons from school in the past with the “coffee ship” or “breeding sheep” still light up correct ending on d or t of a past participle to be determined on the basis of the last letter before it?). In the same sense an example of the nowadays annoyingly English writing separately of words that are written together in the Dutch language, so it should not be linseed oil products, but linseed oil products. As said at the beginning, happy with the information.
Another application: when you apply parts to black plastic bodywork that have become obsolete over time (grayed out, grayed out) then the surface becomes new again. In the beginning it shines a bit too much, but that disappears again after a few days. Not too thick because otherwise it will flake after a year (color will remain beautiful).
“After Owatrol has dried out, it must be sealed airtight with a layer of lead red lead, then iron menie and then a layer of non-porous paint, two-component lacquer, enamel, must be applied over it”. I don't get this.
Why 2 layers menie?
What is Iron Menie?
Do you always have to use 2 component paint?
A Dutch equivalent of Owatrol is RX5. Works very well too!
Nice article. I use it a lot. For years. Too bad the grammatical errors in the article say!
Indeed
Ha! Those are not mistakes. That is patina. Contact There has been contact about your work, but I have not heard anything about it. I will contact you again!