We care deeply about pampering our engines. But of course we also sometimes dream away of miracle cures that allow us to bypass a block revision just like that.
Experts say that subsequent additions to motor oil have little added value if an engine block is simply in good condition. They assume that there is little that can be improved on the oil as offered by the renowned manufacturers. The aim of the additives is usually to 'improve' the oil and thereby reduce friction. Only Yellow Miracle Oil claims to work as a 'metal treatment technology'.
That's why we started grouping the case
We came to the following distinction in types:
- Fluids based on mineral oils (with the associated standard additives) plus PTFE. And PTFE is the generic name of the products for which DuPont has registered the brand name 'Teflon'. PTFE is a 'plastic' with an extremely low coefficient of friction. A solid.
- Products consisting of the above-mentioned normal mineral oil with the standard additives plus zinc diakyldithiophosphate (or zinc diaryldithiophosphate), known as 'zinc' as an additional addition.
- Products that - as far as we could determine - are based on the best oils and additives plus a number of additives that are classified as confidential. The relative newcomer Yellow Miracle Oil is also partly vegetable. Various tests have shown that this product is at least as effective as that other 'super juice', which has long been known to be effective: TSL.
- Products that mainly consist of solvents and cleaning agents.
PTFE, or if it comes from DuPont 'Teflon'
Frequently sold oil additives are currently those in which PTFE powder is mixed with regular, mineral or synthetic motor oil. Slick 50 claims to be the largest player in this segment.
The PTFE is indicated by these suppliers as the only additional active ingredient. But the inventor of the product, the American chemical giant DuPont, once emphatically stated that: "Teflon is not a sensible oil additive or lubricant for internal combustion engines". The company therefore refused to resell Teflon as such.
When DuPont stopped the delivery of PTFE powder to the additive makers, a number of them sought refuge elsewhere.
After a number of lawsuits, DuPont had to admit that PTFE also had no clearly identifiable disadvantages when used in combustion engines. The company therefore had to resume the supply of PTFE powders to the aforementioned manufacturers of additional lubricants. The makers immediately claimed that the judges had proven that their approach worked. While in fact the ruling was only that the harmfulness of PTFE as an additive had not been proven.
When purchasing a PTFE-bearing additive, there is a very easy guideline in that case: if the packaging states that the product must first be shaken, the added PTFE particles apparently tend to sink to the bottom. And if they do that in the bottle, then they will probably do the same in a usually little used classic.
Because PTFE is a solid. The additive makers claim that it is precisely those solid particles that leave the protective layer on the metal treads. A conclusive scientific proof has not yet been given for this. But it seems instinctively that the PTFE that has to be deposited precisely at the places that are the most heavily loaded in the engine, must still easily settle at the quieter places in the block. Like in the oil canals. Even NASA tests pointed in that direction.
This is countered by the claim of a number of manufacturers. They say that their PTFE is ground so finely that it remains in solution and passes through all oil channels and filters. That sounds good and may be true. But then we have to hope that those manufacturers have taken into account that PTFE expands a lot when heated. Laboratory tests in America have proven that with some suppliers the growth of the PTFE particles is in practice so great that the particles apparently partially remained in the filters at the engine's operating temperature.
The newest panacea: zinc
In recent years there has been a product that wants to rival PTFE: zinc. Well, actually 'zinc dialkyldithiophosphate' or 'zinc diaryl dithiophosphate'. The representatives of this trend claim much better results than their colleagues from the PTFE corner can deliver.
Zinc has been a component of common motor oils for years. For standard oils, a percentage of 0,1 is common. For oil for higher loads, this can amount to 0,2 percent by volume.
Organic zinc compounds are used because they provide better protection against wear under high pressures. Think of engines that run very high speeds and turbo compressors. The zinc only does its protective work when metallic contact occurs in the engine block. And that should never happen under normal circumstances.
Products containing 'zinc' are easy to recognize. There is a warning sticker because 'zinc dialkyldithiophosphate' and 'zinc diaryl dithiophosphate' can cause eye damage. Always wear protective goggles and gloves when working with liquids that could be harmful to health in any way. Also ensure good ventilation.
Solvents and cleaning agents
We often find these agents in older generations of oil additives. They do not leave a nice layer behind, they actually remove dirt. For example, the famous Wynn's friction Proofing consists of 83% kerosene. Other brands consist partly of naphthalene, xylene, acetone or isopropanol. These are carcinogenic substances that pose a danger through eye contact and inhalation.
However, if the dosage is too large, they will not only remove the dirt, but also the lubricating oil layer.
A cautious conclusion
The engines of our classics are at least 25 years young. Meanwhile, lubrication systems including filtering, materials and tolerances have been improved to such an extent that the comparison between an Opel Rekord 1900 cc pushrod engine and a three-cylinder 1000 cc turbo of 220 hp simply cannot be made.
But perhaps that is precisely the reason why there are quite a few classic drivers who swear by this type of product from their own experience. And why not? From our own experience we have noticed clearly noticeable and measurable results after adding Yellow Miracle Oil and TSL
Known for the television spots ...
Engine manufacturer Briggs & Stratton was unknowingly the supplier of a number of those demo engines from the TV spots from a while ago. Those commercials in which the American accent so often says FANTASTIC! And INCREDIBLE!!!! was called. They became curious and did the same experiment under laboratory conditions. It turned out that the engine that had been treated with product 'X' indeed continued to run for a long time without oil. Just like the engine that also ran dry without any miracle cure ever being added. Later measurements showed that both engines had suffered considerably from the experiment.
The title 'instead of' suggests that additives no longer have to adhere to maintenance intervals. Nothing could be further from the truth and there is no product that claims such a thing.
Additives such as Teflon or zinc may or may not have a preventive effect and will not 'cure' a worn out engine.
And as mentioned earlier, these types of articles unfortunately often unintentionally stir up emotions between supporters and opponents.
Or they are the start of a pleasantly heated discussion. The suppliers' suggestions are usually much braver
What is it all about? Not about the motorcycle but about the...money🙄
Cheap is expensive.
I have been using Gulf 20W50 with 2000 units of zdpp for years in 2 cars, an XK140 and a Bentley R type, both run beautifully and silky smooth.
Many of my acquaintances followed my example with quieter running engines after a while.
This type of oil must be given time to deposit on the metal parts.
As icing on the cake, my classics also get TSL, which I also do in 2 Lexuses and 1 Toyota.
In a personal capacity: TSL, I believe in that too
To be the most economical in consumption, car manufacturers do the strangest tricks. There were even some guys who prescribed 0-W30 for their engines. My feeling is that you might as well piss in the engine. The bearing and piston fits are not much different than they were 20 years ago. So what would it be like to use a 10-W40 that, due to its slightly higher viscosity alone, sticks a little better and can provide just a little more lubrication during cold starts? Make no mistake…. An engine with life experience and with a little more bearing play has a smaller load-bearing surface in the bearing than when it was new. Because the wedge angle, which is so important for the build-up of the lubricant film, is steeper, the build-up of the lubricant film is demonstrably more difficult. An oil with more adhesive power, such as a slightly thicker oil, is still preferable. The build-up of a lubricant film is caused by the movement of the engine and not by the pressure of the oil pump. Most already knew that, but still. The oil pump must provide enough supply to dissipate temperature. And what special juices contribute to longevity? A big question for me. However, zinc as an emergency lubricant is not a bad thing. Using an engine sensibly will extend its lifespan considerably. Usually no oil can compete with that.
Plus the consideration that quite a few recent engine blocks were simply not good from the drawing board because the accountant was breathing down the engineer's neck
exzra zinc is useful if you want to break in a new camshaft / tappets
Using a motorcycle sensibly is indeed the most important thing @moritzzzzz, but I used to have good experience with Slick50. This was used in a Fiat Panda 1000S, which immediately became a lot less noisy, driven 90.000 times in one year. A Peugeot 205GTI 1,9 also performed excellently for 240.000 km, never a problem. Back in my HTS days I had acquaintances with one Alfa (Giulias, the wonderful Nord block) who cheerfully revved the cold engine. Well, then you ask for it with a light metal block with cast iron bushings, you could almost wait for it... Well then I had an engine problem with my own 1600 Sprint GT from '66, but the cause was a broken check valve of the brake booster and then you do unfortunately there is not much to it (connection to 4th cylinder, therefore too poor mixture = hot and that burns a hole in the piston if it takes too long).
But certainly not a bad experience personally, although I have never found a really good independent test.
I have also been using Slick50 since I bought my car brand new.
520.000 km further, it now has an oil consumption of 0,75 liters per 10.000 km and the engine still runs like a charm.
Unfortunately, it is impossible to determine whether or not this is due to the addition of the slick50 and whether the engine would be in worse condition without this product.
But at least it didn't do any harm.
I think the biggest benefit is that you apparently drive sensibly and carry out regular maintenance. But really, 'If it doesn't bleat, then it won't sheep'
Your own experiences are worth the most
Characteristic of these products is that you are either an extreme supporter or extreme opponent of additives.
The fact is that since 2011 the zinc content in classic engine oil has been reduced by two-thirds (under pressure from the legislature), so adding ZDDP as compensation for classic engine oil does not seem wrong to me.
It is also known that the greatest wear in an engine occurs in the first seconds of a cold start, because the oil is still at the bottom of the block and is not present on all rubbing parts. So a product that meets this requirement doesn't seem bad to me.
It is a pity that you cannot prove the effectiveness, there are just as many tests that prove the benefits and on the other hand tests that try to do the opposite.
It is only a shame if your engine breaks down due to the wrong (modern) oil or too little lubrication if you could have prevented this and then you can no longer find the parts for repair.
I myself have experience with a broken engine due to the use of motor oil that is too modern.
It is often the emotions that are leading. Years ago I read a test in a USA trade magazine. Of the 19 additives tested, three provided an improvement above the margin of error of the measurements. But fuel and lubricants have evolved so far that they no longer resemble the stuff that was invented when our classics were new. You often have to leave the factory data as it is and adjust the ignition and carburetion to the current juices. But hey, that also keeps us off the streets