Water cooling: Engine cooling with classic 2.0 engines

Motorcycle engines were once air-cooled almost by definition. After all, headwind cooling is not the most ideal form of engine cooling. The temperature of an engine can be controlled much better with liquid cooling. Once that was water. Later that water became 'coolant with additives'. Now there is even an anhydrous coolant. Liquid cooling is a more complex way of cooling engines, but a liquid cooled engine is always better. But at today's temperatures, a neglected cooling system can cause problems.

Remains the fact that liquid cooling is somewhat more maintenance sensitive than wind speed cooling

The fact remains that motorcyclists have a strong tendency to do the same with the coolant as they normally do with brake fluid and the oil in front forks: they forget the whole story. Liquid cooling in motorcycles is not new. Scott already used water cooling in 1908.

With water cooling, cooling water is pumped through the cooling system

With a combustion engine it is the most heat in the head. But with just 'a waterhead' you usually can't make it. Due to the large heat absorption of water, water cooling is generally more effective than air cooling whereby the air flows directly over the surface to be cooled. But sufficient transition contact is needed to make the case work. The coolant loses its heat through the radiator whereby the heat is released to the air over a large area. Then the cycle starts again.

There is a water pump and a radiator in the cooling system.

One can wear / leak. The other can get clogged on the outside or from the inside. The outside is clear. It must be kept clean. Street dirt and insects are the culprits here.

Inside the system it is important that the coolant remains clean and effective

The corrosion-resistant dopes are worked out and sludge can start to deposit in the cooling system. When draining the old coolant, pay attention to the color and the contamination. If the coolant is very contaminated, special flushing agents are available to clean the cooling system from the inside according to the instructions. Before you start filling the cooling system with new coolant, first install the drain plug with a new copper sealing ring. You will not be the first to forget that.

You also check all water hoses and hose clamps

The snakes can be outdated. Pay special attention to the places where the hose clamps are. You then pour the fresh coolant into the radiator through the filler opening. Allow the liquid to run in gently so that the air can escape from the system. When the liquid reaches the bottom of the filling opening, you also fill the expansion tank up to the upper level line.

Now mount the cap on the expansion tank, start the engine and let it run smoothly. You will see that the fluid level in the radiator will drop because now all the air is expelled from the cooling system. Switch off the engine again, top up the coolant if necessary and turn the cap on the radiator. Now you can start the engine again and let it warm up well.

If the coolant has remained at the same level, you will in principle no longer have to worry about it for two years.

But check the liquid level regularly.

Just like the other fluid levels.

That is, after all, a small effort.

And don't drive on when you find oil in the coolant.

Because then you have a flat head gasket.