Build cafe racers

Cafe racers
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Fortunately there is a huge selection of neo, semi or real classics that is too good to throw away, but for which a Real Restoration would be far too expensive. Making café racers is a winter thing…

Cheaper than restoration

That Real Restoration usually gets stuck on the prices of color parts and chrome work such as the exhaust system. An original four-in-one exhaust system can cost just € 2.000. And when spraying the color parts in original colors, just think of amounts between € 1.500-2.000. If the end result is fifty percent more expensive than purchasing a neat, ready-made copy, then it's clear. Do not. And because such a machine is not original, the current value is low. Very low. Between the € 500-1.000 you must have a technically healthy start to your café racer. And for that amount, such a machine must also be neatly on its tires and the possibly present chain set should not run on its last teeth.

Usually the next step is that the looks must be adjusted.

But first take the time to give the new purchase a big turn. Remove the battery before further tinkering. When thinking economically, keep in mind that regular Action motor oil is fine and costs nothing, but that it is 'car oil'. Not suitable for engines with an oil bath rotating clutch. Such a clutch will slip due to normal car oil. Do not buy imitation K&N copies when purchasing sporty air filters. Chinese imitation stuff loses more power than you would like. This also applies to mufflers that look like Megatons Akras or Dunstalls, but smother every block above 125 cc mercilessly. Dismantle the front fork legs, flush them and fill them with fresh oil. There is a good chance that this will happen for the first time in twenty years. And it helps. A few progressively wound springs don't cost the world either. Replace the brake hoses immediately. This usually has to be done every five years, but is often forgotten.

Café racers? Trade supplies (almost) everything

Fun! Since the making of café racers, scramblers, bobbers and so on, it has been discovered, 'the trade' offers a huge range of beautiful things. About 99% of that beauty comes from China, does not cost any licorice and the fit can sometimes be less. But often you can get by with patience and a little detail. A lot of the nice stuff is (quite) easy to assemble, although a friend with a welding machine or an acquaintance with a lathe or milling machine can be useful. Always remove the battery before welding. When purchasing gear for your footrests, a 'rearset', consider whether your knees can be bent as sharply for as long as they were when you were twenty. In connection with the endurance of the back and neck, also consider how far you want the clip ons under the triple clamp. With your hands at the height of the front axle and your knees at your ears you look very fast. But the effect is less if you have to be lifted off the bike. For comfort reasons, a 'broomstick' handlebar or an 'M handlebar' (a 'drop-eared handlebar') is often the better option.

In order of importance, there is an impressive selection of seats, mudguards and tanks (plus possibly small tubs). Remember that aluminum tanks are just as expensive as they are beautiful. And that the resin of glass fiber reinforced polyester tanks in any case already dissolves quietly when using E10 fuel.

You can outsource the spraying work to the local car sprayer or you can get started with 'ratchet buses'. Even if they come from the Action you can get a very good result with it. But it is just how high you set the bar or how far you want to pull the cut open. Take a look at the photo models and let your mind wander. Make a cafe racer, make your own cafe racer. Is that not what?

Cafe racers

There is an incredible story behind that. And isn't he beautiful?



Cafe racers

Driving a BMW doesn't have to be expensive. This was a good R60 / 6

Cafe racers

Once specified from the factory for 23 pk. An 750 cc KMZ / IMZ side valve

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Cafe racers
At Royal Enfield they just make them new. But that is for the wannabees 🙂





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  1. (Auto) Oil in the api sf and sg class is excellent for use in engines, then friction reducers have been added and the share of anti-wear additive zddp has also been considerably reduced because this agent shortens the service life of the catalyst.
    With 4 stroke oil for engines with the class after sg is enough zddp added again
    Just look in workshop manuals of engines from the years 80, where a se or sf oil is prescribed, then there was no difference between car / motor oil.
    The stories that in an engine with separate gearbox guzzi, bmw or just car oil can use is only partly true, only up to the class
    So sg can be used.
    Until a few years ago they sold oil at the Action 15w40 sf. 5 liter for not even a 10 euro, driven for years without problems with that oil

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