Dutch Floretts have their history. In no country in the world were there around the 1960s as many mopeds per number of inhabitants as in the Netherlands. No wonder a major producer like Kreidler wanted to make some adjustments for that.
The installation of 19 wheels, a bicycle bell and pedals was the start. And it was not a difficult start because there were already comparable two-wheelers in Germany. Germany had different classes in the 50cc category: the Mofa (25 km / h, so moped) and the Moped, comparable to our mopeds with pedals and limited to 40 km / h. But even after the Kreidler was adapted to Dutch law, it remained a technical masterpiece. We must realize that at that time the Netherlands was mainly populated by cyclists and that cars were still rare. A moped was not a toy. A moped was a serious vehicle for ambitious employees who dreamed about owning a car. The speed only came into the picture later when the youth adopted the moped ride. But quick stuff? Oh well, you had it on again. That became very topical a few years later. A step up on the front wheel was the approach that most agents understandably close their eyes for. In many moped shops, behind the cash register or at the entrance, all the shelves with quick items were immediately placed. Everything neatly 'Original Kreidler', Mahle or much cheaper 'reference'. And because China was just a huge empty country at the time, those things didn't come from there, but from Italy. That country had a rich 50 cc history and a lot of small specialists who really went out of their way to get their grain. And even then there were already dramatic differences between 'original' and 'imitation'.
During the development of the Kreidler Florett it became clear that the use of a steel tubular frame was not feasible due to the planned numbers and cost of that approach. Alfred Kreidler therefore decided to build the new model from a pressed frame as the backbone for the new Florett. The costs of pressed plate parts for frames are so high that they are only justified in the case of serious mass production. The famous company Roth GMBH that produced many press parts for NSU and Puch had the presses. There, the 2 mm thick, plate parts were pressed into shape. The two frame shell halves of 2 mm thick sheet steel were then delivered to Kreidler, welded and fitted with front and rear suspension. In the front part of that beautifully designed frame was the steering head included, the rear part was immediately also a fender, while at the bottom the engine and the rear fork suspension were integrated. The swing arm front fork was designed by Kreidler in such a way that the mudguard was a supporting part of the construction.
The 'horizontal' engine was a novelty. This construction resulted in a low center of gravity and few vibrations in the frame. The Mahle company was asked to make cylinders in accordance with the Kreidler specifications. The cylinder was the first on the moped market to get its durable chrome layer. Because that cylinder was in the shelter of a KREIDLER behind the fairly wide front fender, forced cooling was necessary. That also had its advantage. The forced cooling allowed the cooling fins of the cylinder to be kept short, which in turn was conducive to the slender construction of the whole and the limitation of resonance noises from the cooling fins. Because the cooling was speed and not speed dependent, such a Kreidler thermally was also very healthy with heavy use. Consider a vacation with two people plus luggage to the distant Ardennes. Together with the engine shields (provided with an air intake hole) and the cylinder cover, the whole made a harmonious, stretched impression with the sheet steel frame and the fuel tank. Moreover, the plating - if properly installed - had a dampening effect on the engine noise.
We are going to see what happens when such a veteran is going to be reborn.
Preparations;
Check the egg tank for completeness (possibly on the basis of a parts book and photos).
This is because it often happens that when purchasing an egg tank, non-original parts or parts of the year are used or parts are missing.
After disassembly, check the condition of the thread in each bolt hole.
Disassembling an Egg.
When dismantling, an egg tank changes into a lot of loose parts, get a bundle of lockable (freezer) bags in advance so that you can immediately store all parts per piece or type (coupling springs, etc.) labeled, so you avoid a lot of disappearance and search work at the reconstruction
Also save the parts that you are planning to renew, nothing is more annoying to miss a part that cannot be reached without having an example of it anymore.
Preferably write down on paper what the painter (or coater) must take into account, such as the need to keep the frame number visible and parts that do not need to be sprayed, including the upper part of the front fork. Especially with coating it can be annoying if afterwards it turns out that the coating, for example, does not allow the swingarm axle to easily pass through the appropriate hole (you can also mount wooden plugs and old bolts / nuts to keep holes and threads free of the coating) . This powder coating layer is in fact a melted layer of plastic and is later difficult to remove from holes and screw thread turns. Also note the blind rivet holes for the tank emblems. No paint should get in there, otherwise it will be too shallow and you have a chance that you will cause dents with the re-placement of the emblems (check before placing if the depth is sufficient for the nails).
Check purchased imitation parts in advance for a good fit, this often leaves something to be desired. Reference center stands sometimes have their own unique fit.
The disassembly of emblems often leads them out of their original form. Therefore, first clean them neatly (possibly polish) and, in advance, bend them back very carefully and neatly into shape on the parts that have not been repainted (such as tank and front fender) to prevent scratches. To remove the knee rubbers from the tank, you can preferably pour them over with hot water so that they become softer and easier to remove. After removal, check that the metal edges behind which they hook on the tank are not bent anywhere. If this is the case, then bend them back neatly. That saves you damage when the stuff is sprayed again and the (new) knee rubbers are provided.
Don't be frugal when it comes to replacing things like brake shoes, rubber parts, bearings, rear fork and headset bearings, etc. You will soon forget the extra investment. The carefree driving pleasure, you can enjoy it for years to come.
The metal color parts can best be powder coated for eternity. The range of available powder colors is now huge. But wet spraying gives the most beautiful and authentic color image. Wet spray on powder coated parts.
Build up;
An egg tank consists of many more parts than the later types. Keep this in mind when you don't have room to build inside.
When assembling, make sure you have some old blankets or sheets on which you can display the sprayed parts, so that you minimize the risk of damage.
Parts such as the complete front fork with decoration and the tank can be assembled in advance, it is inconvenient to do this while mounting on the moped itself.
There are some little things that you quickly forget while building up and that take a lot of time to correct when you find out later. Think of the rubber around the frame for the cable guide, the round sliding piece that ensures that the chain does not damage the frame when it is slack (place it before you mount the swingarm), the front brake and km-counter cable guides that are mounted on the rear bolts of the swingarm must be mounted (the bolts for that stick from the inside to the outside, so if you forget it, the front wheel has to come out again), And you can't forget them because otherwise the cables will wear out because they drag along the front wheel.
Wrench with well-fitting tools (damaged bolts are not a face), preferably with ring wrenches with an internal hexagon because they are the least quick to shoot off a bolt and have the most grip.
Ratchet sets are also good to use. If you have to stop a bolt / nut and you do not have two ring spanners, use the ratchet to hold back and the ring spanner for tightening, a ratchet has the often cropped head and especially when you work with one hand. hexagon. And that in turn damages the paint or your knuckles. There is also the choice for the better tools. A ratchet from the Aldi works with big steps. For example, a ratchet from 'Kraftwerk' has a ring that is in line with the handle and 'grabs' a new tooth with every 5 degrees of angular rotation. Of course, keep an eye on the available space in which you can use your tools while tinkering, preferably a few short strokes more than one time too long, resulting in damaged paint parts. On the first day of construction, try to ensure that the project can stand on both wheels (but also protect it against possible tipping / falling over). The best approach for this is that you start with the frame upside down, after which you mount the substructure part (stop, exhaust support and standard). Then place the swingarm and the front fork + steering head bearings etc. (This way of mounting the steering head bearings is especially handy because it makes it easier to place the balls in the cups. Use enough grease to embed them.) Make sure that the frame is as stable as possible during these activities.
If you do not have a son or neighbor as an assistant to hand, you can mount a board across the rear eyes where the buddy is normally mounted, so that the frame cannot fall over easily. When everything is done, you can unfold the standard, mount the front wheel, just like the rear shock (s) (possibly only the right one because the left one has to be removed later for the chain guard) and then the gear holder (with sprocket) and the rear wheel .
Placing new eye rubbers for the shock absorbers etc. can sometimes be a difficult job, but there is a trick for it. Take a well-fitting long bolt or piece of threaded rod, a nut and two large body washers, secure one side of the bolt or threaded rod tightly and straight in a vise and place a body ring around the new eye rubber containing the corresponding metal. bus. Then lubricate the eye rubber well with some washing-up liquid, take the shock absorber and push it partly over the eye rubber by manpower and make sure that it fits nicely horizontally. Now put the second body ring over the protruding stud and screw the nut on. All you have to do now is tighten the nut until the eye rubber is neatly in place.
Most cables and wiring are easiest to install with the control plate and the cable guide not yet mounted. However, the switching cables pass through a designated hole of the cable guide, so wait until the end. Before you put the handle on the coupling side, measure the switch, because you will not get it off once the handle is in place (and he usually only wants to get rid of it again). The wiring on the switch must be connected before you put it in place, but that goes without saying if you look carefully at the switch. The clutch cable can be adjusted on the handle as well as on the inside of the frame at the rear wheel, it goes without saying that you do the first adjustment at the rear frame so that you can stretch the new clutch cable to the adjustment of your clutch lever can accommodate. You work easiest on this with the rear wheel out of the frame, which also makes pulling the last bit of wiring to your rear light easier.
The chain guard is, in contrast to the later models, a somewhat awkward thing. The inside is only fixed at one point and that is the bolt of your shock absorber, moreover your rear wheel must be disassembled to place it, because the large hole in the inner plate falls around your gear holder. At the outside of the chain guard you are again faced with the problem that your shock absorber, passenger foot rest and the chain adjuster come on top of the outside of the chain guard. To minimize the risk of damaging the chain guard, it is best to postpone this as late as possible. For example, until the moment that the rear wheel has to be removed for your clutch cable and the last part of your wiring. Of course, your gears and chain must be placed or placed immediately.
In practice, the tank can be placed last with the saddle on the frame. The whole, however, only just fits along so you make it easier for yourself during installation to place the tank as the saddle.
Wait before placing your frame stickers until the moped has been built up and the screens have been mounted. It is then much easier to determine position and ensure that they run parallel to the screens. Place the stickers after you have moistened the surface with water in which you have dissolved a few drops of washing-up liquid. The stickers can then be moved slightly. Then leave the parts for 48 for hours at room temperature. The stickers can then attach.
Imitation or original
Nowadays you can buy imitation parts at just about every Kreidler dealer. Middle goats for example. On the outside they look great on the original. But some imitation goats sink much faster than an original. So if you have to buy a new standard, put that extra twenty euros down for an original copy.
Are there differences between a German Moped and a Dutch Moped motorcycle?
There are more similarities than differences. The transmission between the two engines is the same. Primary 1: 3,671e acceleration 3,61. 2e acceleration 2,0. 3e gear 1,31 Only the shift mechanism has changed. It has really improved and is more resistant to radial forces. There is an extra hole in the Dutch carter. This hole is for the shift shaft of / for an 3 foot gear.
A larger flywheel is mounted on the Dutch engine. On the Dutch engine there is a brake lever with 3 holes that can be used to attach the spring of the traffic light switch. A different type of shift shaft is mounted on the Dutch engine that is more resistant to axial forces.
Thanks to the various Kreidler drivers in my circle of acquaintances
Specialisten
www.kreidlerspecialist.nl
Kreidler Oldtimer Specialist Beatrixstraat 1 1165 GJ Halfweg nh. Telephone: 020 497 0065
www.kreidlerdatabase.nl
www.kreidleronderdelen.nl
Clubs
www.kreidler.nl
www.kreidlerclubnoord.nl
www.kreidler-club.nl
www.kreidlerparts.com
